The Tiniest of them all

Whenever I am expected to write a post, I never tend to do it. Not because I'm trying to be a rebel or anything (I'm too much of a goody-goody) but mostly because I don't quite know how to begin. 

I could start with talking about my very first day in Moscow which was 1 whole year and almost 1 whole day ago-today. I'm huge on telling my students to find adjectives to describe things so I will follow suit. Bewildered, terrified, hopeless. These are the words I would choose to pin-point the Ali arriving in Moscow. Dragging my extremely heavy green coffin behind me, trying to catch up with Jackie and Maree, with strange people speaking a strange language around me, I could barely breathe. I just kept thinking that I had made a horrible mistake. 
After leaving the airport to get on the train, I felt winded by the biting Moscow-cold and slipping, fell flat on my face. I didn't have time to cry because I would miss the train, but I remember wondering how soon was too soon to leave.

Yesterday morning, 1 whole year later, I woke up in my flat in Moscow with Red Square just around the corner, put on my big-people-teacher-outfit, packed my bag for school (complete with a snack) and got onto a different kind of train, with my same friend who has sat beside me on many trains, taxis, bar stools, benches, couches and beds and went to my job at the school where I feel I was always destined to end up, even on that day that I ripped my jeans while falling. 

In my introductory blog post last year, I wrote about the Matryoshka doll and spoke about how I wanted to uncover my layers to find my "tiny doll" right in the middle:
 "The solid, tiniest doll right in the centre is the one that intrigued me most. She was protected by all the other dolls that encompassed her so she must have been special."
What I will say is that I started achieving this from that very first slip. Within the first month, I had uncovered so many of those layers, I felt all I had left was that solid little doll that people mistake to underestimate.  I have discovered that the little doll was encompassed in all these layers but it wasn't to protect her fragility. This little tiny doll could protect herself and just quite liked having those layers around her. 

One of my layers, comprises of two very special people who set out on this journey with me as the tag-along and have never stopped looking back to make sure I was still there. Maree and Jackie have too discovered the most incredible things about themselves and the world and this is evident in how they carry themselves and live their daily lives. Celebrating with a dinner out last night, we sat and spoke (as we do) about the best things and the worst things about this past year and we have shared an experience that is so unbelievable and unique to us that in 10 years time, we might still be able to do that. Thank you my amazing Matryoshkas.
Another layer is my always-there-for-you family. My cute mom, my lame-jokes dad, my wise oldest big brother, my crazy-in-a-good-way other big brother, my loyal uncle and my precious aunt have seldom felt extremely far away because between the six of them, one is always bound to reply. They have let me go and watched my spread my wings while they shouted from beneath to go higher and higher, and no one would refuse an offer like that. I love you.
My last layer (at the risk of this sounding like an Oscar acceptance speech) is my friends. Those at home, those abroad, those here, those there. Laughter has never been in short supply when they have a hand in it as well as an encouraging (and sometimes necessary discouraging) word. I miss you but I'll probably text you later anyway and tell you that.
The layers are necessary because it's more fun unpacking them to see what the tiny doll is made of, not to be stripped away.

And guess what? It's been a year since I last slipped in Moscow. 

For Granny Eileen

My dearest granny.

In your heart, you found a way to connect with each and every person who crossed your path. Not only did you connect with them, but you interrogated them, gave them a lecture, inspired them and by the time you were finished, they were in awe of you. 

Today, I giggled through my tears because every memory I have of you leaves me feeling happy and grateful. Happy remembering your complete unique way of living, and so incredibly grateful for the hundreds of lessons you taught me. 

You never let go of your inner child and I will never forget her. At about seven, I remember us on the pavement outside our house laughing along as we soldier-marched hand in hand while you shouted, "Left, right, left, right, left, left!" and then did a dramatic turn to end it off. I never ever cared what people thought when we were doing things because how could they not know that you were the most intelligent person in the world? 

I remember over school holidays, you would park your impeccably-taken-care-of blue car in our driveway and claim your territory of all our holiday plans and at any moment of debate, we were simply told to "Go play in the traffic my friend", and then you would laugh hard to soften the blow. 

You taught us to question everything, to ask anything, to try, to investigate, to look up words, to read read read, to not use books as skates, to make pancakes, to play outside, to eat everything on our plates, to appreciate, to find a way, to talk things through and with your amazing teaching skills, you taught us to love. 

I love you so much gran, my heart is so sore and sad that you are no longer here, but because you had such an impact and effect on us (whether forced or not), that we all have "granny Eileen" like features. They are easily identified because they are so distinct. Every time I encounter the word 'environment', I think of you. I turn on the stove, I hear your voice in my head. Finger painting, play dough, jungle oats and syrup, compost, coke, jelly, guava juice, fold out tables, cooking rice, long beaded necklaces, witches, slippers with pom-poms, Greek yoghurt, silverware. The lessons and conversations were endless, and so was the love. 

Thank you for the happy and invigorating environment you always created for us. You are the best person I know. 

Rest peacefully my precious gran, we will always miss you.

Germany

Germany

We arrived in Munich late Monday afternoon which didn't leave much time for sight seeing so we had to settle for having a wander in the very busy and bustling streets as well as the Christmas markets.

With Christmas lights tracing every building and the fragrant smell of Gluwein hanging in the air, we maneuvered our way through the thousands of people to the Paulaner beer house to have a traditional German dinner and the original  beer.

The restaurant had the feel of family gatherings as well as if you had gone to your grandparents place for dinner. The entire place was decorated for Christmas and with the combination of dark wood and merry diners, the place really exhibited the Christmas spirit. I ordered the pork knuckle, not quite aware at how large this dish actually would be, while the others had the schnitzel. The meal were not only rather large, but they were incredibly delicious. It kind of felt like Christmas dinner.

We then rolled out back into the streets to have a look at the hundreds of Christmas stalls and displays. Gingerbread houses, carefully carved out nativity pieces and twinkling Christmas tree ornaments were on offer as the people drank beer and Gluwein out of the special German cups.

The next morning we were able to stop past one of the concentration camps which was actually the first concentration camp used in the Holocaust. The experience is one that is difficult to describe because I couldn't  say it was enjoyable, but rather uncomfortable and incredibly awakening. The extent to which these people suffered is hardly portrayed in the exhibitions which they have, but it does go to show visitors one thing, which is that something as catastrophically devastating will never ever happen again. I would say that it was worth going to see a concentration camp from a historical and human perspective, I wouldn't say that it should be done with the right kind of attitude.

We then made our way to the Rien Valley which is set along the Rein river which is one of the most important rivers for exports and trade in Europe. There are tall houses situated all along the river as the barges carry their heavy loads through the valley. There are also many castles situated on the steep slopes overlooking the river. We were lucky enough to stay in one of these castles which was converted into a youth hostel. On arrival, I was admittedly disappointed when it didn't quite feel like castle living with their bunk beds and lockers, but the confusing layout and small windows as well as the view, made up for it. We also got to sit outside, play games and have a few drinks with a beautiful castle perspective of the small village beneath us. "I'm the king of the castle" was finally relevant!

We then went into the small village for a quick stop before heading to Amsterdam,our final stop. We visited a famous cuckoo clock shop which holds the largest hanging cuckoo clock in the world. The intricate handmade little clocks chimed and cuckooed away as we were told about the different aspects of these clocks. 

One more stop at the beer stein shop where we were told about the difference between the glass and porcelain beer glasses which was interesting and helpful. 

With tinsel hung in the back windows of the bus, we drive through to Amsterdam for Christmas Eve and probably the strangest but most different Christmas day we will ever have. 

Venice

Venice

Yesterday was spent exploring the streets, or canals rather, of Venice in Italy. 

We stayed at a hotel outside of Venice due to there being no cars in the actual centre and on the night of arrival enjoyed a delicious meal of spaghetti bolognaise and Italian wine.

The following morning we set off into the center of Venice which almost felt like it was stuck in a time warp because it feels as if there has not been too much change to the buildings, cafes and shops as we wondered between the narrow streets. We meandered our way through past beautiful old churches and pavement coffee shops until we found ourselves in St Marco's Square. 

The square is covered in pebblestone, pigeons and tourists taking selfies, but it is absolutely stunning. Above you can hear the seagulls and the scent of the water drifts by. The church dedicated to St Marco is adorned with amazing paintings, sculptures and marble and has a terrace overlooking the square. Being Sunday, we couldn't go into the church however, and there was construction taking place on the church which was disappointing. 

Also in the square, stands the clock tower where the Venecians would have a good viewpoint of their visitors or intruders. This too was closed unfortunately.

We then went to a lace presentation where we were shown and told about the impossibly intricate lace that the Venecian women have created and still create today. The two very Italian and charming ladies working there definitely added to the experience and even kept the boys entertained with their little stories me comments. That little shop hidden just out of the square has changed how I see lace forever.

Gondolas used to be the only means of transport back in the day where there were around 20 000 in Venice and the operating of these is still passed down in the family, however there are only around 600 these days for tourists. These men (I say men because there are only 2/3 Gondoliers in Venice) are very well trained and are very good at steering the Gondola away just as you feel you might snag a corner and have to abandon Gondola.

We then went all out in tasting the traditional Italian foods with having pizza, cappuccinos and finally, Gelato. I can honestly say that unless I go back to that exact place for ice cream again, I will never have better in my life again.

We also took a wander around a market exhibiting some classic "merchant" gear as well as the very famous Muruno glass pieces.

As the mist set in and more little shops closed their shutters, we found our way back to the hotel before heading out with some friends from the tour.

Having only had a sip of Limoncello once in my Italian uncle's kitchen, I was not quite expecting the shock I received when we decided to have shots on arrival at the local bar. This local bar also seemed more Mexican than Italian, but also had something going on that I had never seen before. As we walked in, we noticed sawdust looking flakes all over the floor and on the tables, only to discover it's was actually peanut shells. At the bar, there is a huge trough where everyone is free to help themselves to handfuls of peanuts, which you then shell yourselves onto the table and then later sweep off onto the floor. There is kind of an exhilarating feeling about being able to do this and we immediately joined in, as well as added in a bit of a peanut throwing fight. Points for maturity, I know.

Due to the peanut littering and limoncello excitement, getting on the bus this morning proved to be a bit of a challenge for us, but the tour must go on.

Switzerland

Switzerland 

Yesterday was spent in the beautiful little town of Lauterbrunnen. 

We arrived the night before after a day long drive from France to Switzerland where we joined two other Top Deck tours at our accommodation which was made up of little log cabins set between two waterfalls with view of the Alps. Things got festive in the bar at the camp with a pajama party and the likes of the crazy Australians meeting South Africans in Europe.

After a breakfast of steaming bread rolls and Swiss cheese (cue Heidi vibes), we took a short walk to the train station to take us to the very top of Europe on an Alp named Jaungfrau.

My dearest friend, being the adventurer that she is, decided on the bus the previous day that she would opt for the Sky dive over the Swiss Alps instead. I gave her extra hugs that morning.

At the station we were given a fake Swiss passport before we boarded the train which we could stamp at the top. Picturesque is the word I would like to use for the views that we saw, but I would like to use it to the most extreme extent possible. You see these amazing scenes in postcards and sometimes on TV, but once you're sitting in a little train cart chugging straight up these steep slopes, you will never be able to appreciate them for all they are worth. 

Half way up to the top, we had to switch to another train. At this point they have a skiing school and all around you are masters and amateurs of this sport in brightly coloured suits getting their ski on. Starting from tiny ants at the top and changing to a person flying past you near to the bottom, it's difficult to note ant to join in. There was also a Heineken beer tent suited in the snow where skiers stood around enjoying the coldest beer they will probably ever have and having a laugh. The Swiss are such friendly and happy people, one has to wonder whether it's due to this lifestyle they're living.

Back on the train to the top, it was very obviously embarking directly to the top right through a tunnel built through the mountain many years ago. We also saw a frozen glacier stopped amidst its tumble down the slope. There were different viewpoints along the way which added to the trip. 

Eventually we got to the final stop and took an elevator to the highest viewpoint which is an astounding 4160 m above sea level. Not only does the air quite literally take your breathe away because it's a lot thinner, you feel as though you really are on top on the world. Abandoning the urge to "yodilayhihooooo", we took some photos squinting into the sun and made our way to the ice palace. 

All along the passages of the palace are ice sculptures and there are tunnels and places to sit and get cold. 

What would the Swiss Alps be without a Lindt chocolate shop? No half measures are taken here. Eating Lindt chocolate is awesome anywhere, but eating Lindt chocolate on the Swiss Alps at the highest point in Europe takes it to a new level. 

After a quick lunch overlooking the exquisite scenery, we headed back down the alps to find Jo, hoping she had made it.

We found her later in the local coffee shop where she relayed how unbelievable her experience was. Few have the opportunity or guts to jump out of a plane with a view of the Swiss Alps...my friend is super cool.

The day ended with a visit to the Swatch shop and followed with a few local ciders with half of our tour group trying to play one drinking game together. Interesting.

We have still been able to enjoy the alps for a bit longer as we drive through Switzerland and make our way to Venice, Italy.

Now that we're all chocolated out, we can't wait to smash some pizza. 

Paris day 2

Paris day 2

The day started with grey, rainy skies which, we were told, added to the experience of being in Paris. Maybe, but not when you plan on climbing a very tall metal structure higher into those same skies.

Nevertheless, we all hopped on the bus to begin the day's adventures which were free for us to choose. We opted for the Eiffel Tower first. 

It is so strange to actually be underneath this huge, man-made monument after seeing it in movies, on all sorts of merchandise and in other people's photos. Now we could take the cliched photos and be there for ourselves. However, no photo or picture can actually do it justice.

With butterflies in my tummy, we began the ascent of the stairs, choosing to climb as opposed to taking the elevator all the way. The climb was slow and gradual. Partly because I had acquired myself a cough and burning chest as well as the fact that I've managed to inherit (somehow) an extreme fear of heights. 

From the second level of the Eiffel Tower, you have to take the elevator up to the tippy top. While Jo happily snapped away pictures, I focused on not passing out, and eventually we got to the highest point. It was a very misty day, but we were still able to appreciate the spectacular view-from the perspective of a bird, 360 degrees. Amazing.

From there, thanks to Jo's very good navigation skills, we found our next activity which was a river cruise along the San river, bypassing all the beautiful sights and buildings which Paris consists of. Once again, the rain made this difficult but it was worthwhile being able to see everything in 45 minutes.

We then wondered through the streets, past the worlds largest Louis Vuitton store, to have lunch on the champs élysées. Again, I was struck with the feeling of not quite being able to believe that this was real life. The restaurant was so typically French- out on the pavement, with round tables and woven chairs, complete with a flirty French waiter.

After lunch, we walked up the Champs Élysées and up to the Arch de Triumph. The huge traffic circle surrounding the arch is definitely one to behold and demonstrates the business of Paris. The arch is also full of exquisite detail and has to be seen from underneath to fully comprehend.

It was then back on the metro for us in order to visit the beautiful church of Norte Dame. This church is actually situated on one of the islands on the river which adds to its appeal and uniqueness. Our reactions, as well as many other people around us, was mostly just staring at the building wide eyed and mouthed. Walking inside is almost overwhelming as you feel just how sacred and special this church is. All around people are lighting candles, writing prayers of peace and sitting in silence just taking in everything around them. It is extremely humbling.

Our last destination for this busy busy day was dinner and a bar. Ciders and beers were welcomed as people caught up on the day's activities. Then some Aussies and South Africans joined up to continue having a drink, as we do. 

It's so fascinating to hear people's stories of how they came to be here at this point in their lives and adding to this, the experience of seeing all these monumental places and feeling our size again and again. It reminds me that everyone is on some kind of path or journey and we're all just trying to follow some kind of map of life.

Eurotrip 2014: Paris Day 1

The day started as any day in Paris should...with someone saying, "Bonjour!", while serving you a croissant with Nutella. I'm not sure whether it was the 'Paris' effect or if the croissant was really that good, but it was one of the best things I've tasted in a while.

Breakfast was followed by true determination by Jo and I to figure out yet another metro to find the Paris that we've been hoping to see, since the area we're staying in doesn't quite grasp it.
Since I only have Moscow metro to compare to, it has to be said that there are obvious differences. Firstly, the lady selling us tickets was much so helpful and friendly to us which gave us the encouragement to go forth. Armed with our map, the spirit renewed by the lady and our unwavering hearts, we stepped onto the train. One thing that Moscow does better than Paris is how beautiful there metros are but either way, both get you to where you need to be which is always the end goal with metros, I suppose.

Coming out of the underground and being welcomed by the sights of the Louve, is a feeling that is only felt on few occasions. You immediately feel like this is not real life but at the same time are struck with absolute awe and you just have to stand there going, "Flip."

As Jo and I do, we stopped for a couple of selfies and wandered around the exquisite gardens which used to be the private gardens of the palace. As we walked, we spotted the tip of the Eiffel Tower sticking up over the rest of the city, like the loch-ness head might pop up out of the water someday. At least that was my weird immediate thought.

We then walked down the chan se Lise and looked through all the Christmas market stalls, smelling Nutella filled pancakes being prepared and friendly voices saying "Bonjour" and "Merci".
Again, not sure if it's the "Paris-effect", but everything at these stalls seemed extra Christmassy and super interesting.

A sweet lunch was followed by a long sit in the basking sun by the pond overlooking the Paris eye. The angled chairs placed near the pond basically asks you to sit down and relax and so we had no choice but to sun our pale faces and watch Paris go by.

After more photos with the glass pyramid from da Vinci code (there's definitely a more formal name for this, I just cannot remember it right now coz my brain is off), we headed back to the hotel to meet our tour group.

Apparently South Africans like to tour Europe in the winter because we found ourselves making up quite a large portion of the group. We had dinner at a French restaurant where we had the classics of snails and French onion soup where we could bond with the others.

The day ended perfectly with a night tour of the city lights of Paris as well as finally being able to see the full Lochness monster. It's very difficult to not look at the Eiffel Tower when it's in view because it is just so striking...and it even sparkles! We managed to see many beautiful buildings and well-known spots along the way which we are setting out to check out tomorrow. Watch this space.

With my bestie and I sharing bunk beds, a mind full of wonderful new memories and photos and a fulfilled feeling, I can happily close my eyes knowing I'll be waking up again tomorrow in one of the greatest places in the world.